Front of house or back, at the end of a long night all you want are the basics. Tasty, simple food cooked with heart anywhere that’s still open. A decided lack of pretension doesn’t hurt either. These six spots fit the bill.
The Gilt Club
Portland, OR
Braised Kobe brisket with bordelaise, roasted bone marrow,boiled potatoes, carrots and grilled bread; $22 (Until 2 a.m.)
Nanbankan
Los Angeles, CA
Dark meat chicken skewers with scallions or bacon wrapped burdock skewers
Blue Ribbon Brasserie
New York City, NY
Beef Marrow and Oxtail Marmalade; $16.75 (Until 4 a.m.)
Yuet Lee
San Francisco, CA
Clay Pot abalone with duck feet or a less adventurous Oyster and Roast Pork with ginger & onion; $8.50 each (Until 3 a.m.)
Yakitori Totto
New York City, NY
Kawa (chicken skin), Hatsu (chicken heart) or Natto Kinchaku (fermented soybeans in deep-fried bean curd w/ spicy mustard) skewers, all served with Okinawa sea salt; $2.50 each (Until midnight; 1 a.m. on weekends)
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